Seas Forecast: Long-Period Swells To Return This Weekend

Beginning Saturday, long-period swells are forecast to start affecting predominantly northern and northeastern exposed coastlines of Trinidad and Tobago with peak swell activity forecast between Saturday and Tuesday next week.

Swell periods may warrant another Hazardous Seas Alert from the Trinidad and Tobago Meteorological Service from Saturday, which is forecast to reach as high as 15 seconds. Swells with such high periods produce large, battering waves in nearshore areas, and these swells have propagated across the North Atlantic Ocean over the past week, originating from a large low-pressure system in the subtropical Atlantic.

Latest Alert

Trinidad and Tobago is NOT under any tropical storm or hurricane threat, watch, or warning at this time.

Seas Forecast For Trinidad and Tobago

The sea state through the next seven days is generally forecasted to be moderate. Note that sheltered areas include bays, beaches, and generally, the Gulf of Paria and western areas of the Columbus Channel in Trinidad and the western coasts of Tobago. Open waters are the Atlantic Ocean (Eastern Trinidad and Tobago), the Eastern Columbus Channel (Southern Trinidad), and the Caribbean Sea (north of Trinidad, west of Tobago).

Friday: Winds are forecast to remain from the east to northeast between 10 and 15 knots, with gusts to 20 knots. Seas in open waters are forecast to remain moderate, with waves between 1.5 and 2.0 meters and waves in sheltered areas remaining below 1.0 meters. Seas may become locally choppy or rough in heavy showers or the odd thunderstorms. Swell periods are forecast between 9 and 11 seconds, with swells from mainly the northeast.

Saturday through Monday: Winds are forecast to be east to northeast between 10 and 15 knots and gusts to 20 knots. These winds are set to increase by Sunday, between 15 and 20 knots still from the east to northeast. Seas in open waters are forecast to remain moderate, with waves between 1.5 and 2.0 meters, occasionally above in northeastern waters from Sunday, and waves in sheltered areas below 1.0 meters. Swell periods during the weekend are forecast between 10 and 15 seconds, with swells from mainly the northeast and from northeast to east on Sunday. All marine interests should exercise caution, particularly along northern and northeastern coastlines.

Tuesday through Wednesday: Winds generally come down to between 10 and 15 knots from the east, with waves in open waters between 1.5 and 2.0 meters. In sheltered areas, waves remain up to 1.0 meters. Swell periods are forecast between 9 and 12 seconds from the north.

Thursday: Winds remain between 10 and 15 knots from the east, with waves between 1.25 and 1.5 meters in open waters. In sheltered areas, waves stay between 0.5 and 1.0 meters. Swell periods are forecast between 7 and 12 seconds from the north to northeast.

Tidal forecast for Port of Spain, Trinidad (above) and Scarborough, Tobago (below) courtesy Tide-Forecast.com
Tidal forecast for Port of Spain, Trinidad (above) and Scarborough, Tobago (below) courtesy Tide-Forecast.com
Tidal forecast for Port of Spain, Trinidad (above) and Scarborough, Tobago (below) courtesy Tide-Forecast.com

Possible Impacts

Mariners should generally exercise caution during occasional heavy showers or thunderstorms, as seas may become locally rough or choppy in their vicinity, mainly due to gusty winds on Friday.

From Saturday, a long-period swell event is forecast to bring occasional battering waves along the northern exposed coastlines of both islands. Marine interests should also exercise caution.

Rip currents always pose a hazard on the nation’s beaches. If caught in a rip current, swim perpendicular to the current (parallel to the shore). Mariners, especially small craft operators, should ensure their vessels are securely anchored or docked, as choppy/breaking wave conditions may drag the vessel onto the ocean floor or reefs in shallow waters or even break anchorage/mooring.

How to spot a rip current

Rip Currents

Going to the beach is one of Trinidad and Tobago’s favorite pastimes, but not too far from the shore lies a seemingly hidden danger – rip currents. As waves crash on our…

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